McCall’s 7974 Pattern Review

I don’t know about you, but whenever I find a pattern I love, I make it again and again (and again)! McCall’s 7974 works so well for me that I made it three times in a row in three different variations. The drafting is precise, the construction process is straightforward, and the fit was nearly perfect straight out of the envelope. This one is going in the tried-and-true box!

The Pattern

Pattern Description

McCall’s 7974 is reminiscent of a vintage-style tea dress. It has a v-neck, button front, four sleeve variations and a collar option. It has a lightly gathered skirt in two lengths – I love the shorter length! 

Sizing

McCall’s 7974 comes in the standard Big 4 sizing. There’s a comfortable amount of ease built in, but it is still a fitted pattern, meaning it’s unlikely to fit without significant grading if you’re outside the stated measurements. 

I found McCall’s 7974 to work very well for petites. I typically shorten Big 4 bodices by ½” and skirts by 3”, but I didn’t have to make any height adjustments for McCall’s 7974. It was perfect straight out of the envelope! 

It’s worth noting, however, that I fit the pattern to have the waist seam hit at my natural waist since that works best for my figure. This is not where the waist line is indicated on the pattern tissue. If you go by the suggested waist marking on the pattern tissue, non-petites should also get a good bodice length fit with minimal adjustments.

Pattern Adjustments

I used a size 10 for the bust and graded to a 12 at the waist. I didn’t make any other adjustments.

I was happy with the sleeve fit for Version A and Version C. For Version B, I would shorten the sleeve by 3” next time I make it. I actually love the adjusted sleeve for Version B so much that I’ve started using it for other patterns. 

I’ve read that some folks have had a difficult time adjusting the bust on this pattern since it’s a non-standard bodice. If you fit into that camp, Erica Bunker has a great tutorial on her blog.

Design Modifications

I did not make any design modifications. The pattern comes with four sleeve options and two lengths – that’s enough variety for me!

Construction Tips and Tricks

It’s tricky to get the perfect point where the midriff piece meets the bust piece. Take your time, baste, seam rip and redo until you’re happy with it. The instructions detail the steps clearly, but I found it a bit fiddily with lightweight viscose. 

It’s important to get it to a place you’re happy with before moving on to the next step in the instructions. It is very difficult to alter after the fact and involves lots of tedious pressing and hand sewing. Trust me.

The Fabric Requirements

McCall’s 7974 works best with a light- to mid-weight fabric, like a cotton lawn or a viscose with a heavier hand than challis. The version I made in Liberty Tana Lawn is far and away my favorite of the three – it has nice crisp corners but still has a beautiful drape. The Atelier Brunette Granito was also a great choice – it has a lovely hand but is more of a mid-weight viscose. The short sleeve version in Atelier Brunette viscose in smokey came out lovely, but it’s a bit lighter than recommended. It was a little more fiddily to work with and the finished result has less structure than the other versions. 
For the dresses made up in Atelier Brunette fabrics, I splurged on the matching Atelier Brunette buttons. I find Atelier Brunette fabrics difficult to color match, so I love that they have complimentary buttons.

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Keywords: Pattern Review, McCall’s 7974, M7974