I find a silk pajama top to be the epitome of French girl chic. I chalk it up to the proliferation of Sezane, but there’s something about it that’s just so glamorous. I have a few ready-to-wear versions, two from Sezane and two vibrantly printed ones from J.Crew’s collaboration with Drake’s. I love them so much, and they get tons of wear, but I don’t love how dry cleaning is affecting them, and since they’re a few years old, I can’t buy new ones.
Sewing to the rescue! Using my Drake’s for J.Crew shirts as a guide, I adjusted the Carolyn Pajama top to get the perfect cropped-yet-boxy-yet-somehow-curve-hugging fit of my favorite blouses. I’m so happy with the way these blouses turned out! I can’t recommend this pattern enough!
The Pattern
Pattern Description
The Closet Case Carolyn Pajamas are a classic pajama pattern “tailored with a modern, figure flattering cut.” Anyone who has tried to make pajamas with a Big 4 pattern knows how much ease is built in (frumpy palazzo pants, anyone?), so having a more tailored fit is very welcome!
There are lots of options – long sleeve top, short sleeve top, pants, shorts, piping, no-piping, cuffs, pockets – so you can mix and match to create the perfect pair.
Sizing
Of all the pattern companies out there, Closet Case’s sizing is the least compatible with my figure. I’ve bought quite a few of Heather’s patterns, but I keep putting off making them because I worry that the amount of grading I will need to do will distort the patterns. Had I selected my size based on the body measurements chart alone, I would have cut a 6 bust, 4 waist and 12 hip – there’s no way grading from a 4 to a 12 wouldn’t have produced some wonky results!
The Carolyn Pajamas comes in a size 0 to 20, or a 31” bust to a 46” bust. Closet Case is in the process of improving their size range, and given its popularity, hopefully the Carolyn Pajamas will be one of the first patterns they release in their new range.
Pattern Adjustments
This was my first time “rubbing off” ready-to-wear, and I’m so happy with the results! I used my Drake’s for J.Crew silk blouse as a guide, and went back and forth measuring the blouse against the pattern, factoring in seam allowances, measuring some more, and then tweaking the paper pattern.
To recreate my beloved Drake’s blouse, I cut a size 6 in the bust and waist and then graded to a size 8 at the hips. I shortened the paper pattern by 2” at the lengthen/shorten line and shortened the sleeve pattern piece by 2”. And that’s it! It’s boxy but drapey and fits exactly how I wanted!
Design Modifications
I made quite a few size modifications, described above, that changed the silhouette of top, but I didn’t make any design modifications per se.
Construction Tips and Tricks
Confession: I was spectacularly bested by the collar of McCall’s 6891, so now I approach every pattern with a collar with mild trepidation. For whatever reason, I have the hardest time making the words on the page match with the instructional images. The Carolyn Pajama top was no different. When searching for some online help, I stumbled across the Sew Sew Live tutorial on YouTube. It’s amazing, and I highly recommend it if you need some clarity on the instructions.
I also changed the techniques used for a few of the finishings. I left off the topstitching around the placket and collar – it’s not necessary and it would have mussed up the look I was going for. I also refuse to stitch-in-the-ditch. I do not do it. Period. I find it to be the quickest way to add serious imperfection into a garment and it cheapens the whole look. Whenever the instructions called to stitch-in-the-ditch, I hand sewed instead. I also hand sewed my hem, since it gives a cleaner finish.
The Fabric and Haberdashery
I used Liberty Tana Lawn as the main fabric for all of my blouses. It has the perfect silky structure I was looking for! All of my buttons are Atelier Brunette Joy Enamel Buttons from Stonemountain and Daughter. For the piping, I made my own with imperial batiste (my go-to lining and interlining).
Keywords: Pattern Review, Closet Case, Closet Case Patterns, Carolyn Pajamas, Carolyn Pajama Pattern