Jump(suit)ing on the Zadie Bandwagon
What more is there to say about the Zadie that hasn’t already been said? It’s comfortable, on trend, sews up quickly and looks great on all body types! It’s definitely not a perfect pattern, but that doesn’t stop it from being a fan favorite.
The Pattern
Pattern Description
The Zadie jumpsuit is an easy-to-wear, relaxed-fitting jumpsuit with two sleeve options – a grown on cap sleeve and a ¾ sleeve. I’ve only made the cap sleeve version to date, but I have plans to make the long sleeve version to transition into fall.
The jumpsuit wraps, so there is no need for a zipper or buttons, and the trousers are meant to hit at ankle length.
Sizing and Pattern Adjustments
The pattern is designed for someone who is 5’7”, and boy do they mean it! I needed to take a lot of length out of the pattern to get it to fit my 5’1” frame, but the pattern adapted just fine after my adjustments. I took 1 inch out of the bodice, 2 inches out of the rise and 3 ½ inches off the length at the bottom. As many have also highlighted, there’s a lot of ease built into the pattern, so you may want to size down from where you measure. My measurements put me at a size 10 and I made an 8, which still gives me a relaxed fit.
Paper Theory’s size range is fantastic, going from a UK 6 to UK 28 (31.5” bust to 55” bust), and based on what I’ve seen on Instagram, it looks fantastic and fits well in every size!
Design Modifications
I didn’t make any design mods.
Constructions Tips and Tricks
Finishing the Neckline
I’m not a fan of the recommended technique for finishing the neckline. The instructions call for you to make double-fold bias binding and then attaching the binding to the neckline by slipping the folded bias binding over the edge of the garment, sandwiching the bodice in the middle. I don’t find this to be particularly polished, so I’ve finished all of my Zadies with self-made single-fold bias tape. It’s a little fiddly, but I like it better. Lots of folks have also had success drafting a facing for the neckline – that’s probably the cleanest method.
The Pockets
I’m not sure if it’s the pattern drafting, my fabric choice or the flat pattern adjustments I’ve made, but for whatever reason, the notches on the pockets don’t line up for me. Totally not a big deal, since it’s easy enough to fold and press the fabric into the correct configuration, but worth pointing out.
Back Center Seam
I’m not sure why the back bodice isn’t designed to be cut on the fold – maybe to create a more efficient cutting layout? As long as you remove the seam allowance, there’s no reason it can’t be cut on the fold.
The Belt
I also don’t love the recommended instructions for finishing the belt. The instructions have you sew the belt, turn it right side out, and then fold the ends in and the topstitch. I think this gives a sloppy finish, so I always sew together the top of the belt before turning.
The Fabric and Haberdashery
Zadie screams linen to me, and I used linen and linen blends from Stonemountain & Daughter for all of mine.
Buyer beware: The pattern instructions call for 2.25 meters of 150 cm fabric. That is a very precise recommendation and you’ll only be able to use that amount of fabric if you stick with their single-layer cutting layout. I’m all for sustainability, but I really value the efficiency of cutting double-layer fabric. I consider myself to be a master at pattern Tetris, and I haven’t successfully made the Zadie with less than 3 yards of 60” fabric.
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